Epoxy Flooring for Sydney Australia Homes, Garages & Commercial Spaces

Usually both. Epoxy bonds well to concrete and builds thickness, which makes it a good base coat. But standard epoxy discolours and chalks in direct sun, so garages that catch afternoon light, and any outdoor area, need a UV-stable topcoat such as polyaspartic. We choose the topcoat based on how much sun the floor gets.

Flake is the most forgiving. It hides dust, tyre marks and small slab flaws, which is why most garages get it. Metallic gives a glossy, marbled look for living areas and showrooms, but shows dust and fine scratches more. Solid colour suits workshops and commercial floors where you want a clean, even surface. We bring samples to the inspection.

A high-gloss coating can be slippery when wet. For alfresco areas, wash bays and commercial floors, an anti-slip additive is mixed into the topcoat to add grip. In Australia, wet slip resistance is rated under AS 4586 from P0 to P5, with P5 the grippiest. If your floor needs a specific rating for a workplace or council requirement, tell us before we quote.

Sometimes. If the old coating is still firmly bonded, it can be cleaned, degreased and sanded, then recoated. If it's peeling, bubbling or lifting at the edges, it has to be ground off back to bare concrete first, because a new coat will only be as strong as what's underneath. We check this at the inspection.

Yes. Cracks are cut open and filled before coating. One thing to know: much of Western and South-Western Sydney sits on reactive clay that moves with wet and dry seasons. If the slab keeps moving, a crack can reappear through any rigid coating. We'll tell you at the inspection if a crack looks active.

New concrete needs to cure before it can be coated, usually around four weeks, though the exact minimum depends on the product. Coating too early traps moisture under the finish. It's common in new estates around Camden and Campbelltown, so tell us when your slab was poured when you enquire.

It depends on the coating system and the weather, since coatings cure more slowly in cold conditions. Your quote states the exact times for your system.

Sweep regularly, and mop with warm water and a pH-neutral floor cleaner. Wipe up oil and brake fluid when you notice them. Avoid acidic cleaners and abrasive scrubbing pads, which dull the gloss over time. Put felt pads under heavy furniture and a mat under car jacks and stands.

A DIY floor can work well, but most failures come down to preparation, not the product. Cheap roll-on kits usually rely on acid etching or a quick clean, which rarely removes the weak surface layer of the concrete or old oil stains, so the coating lifts when hot tyres sit on it. If you're doing it yourself, hire a diamond grinder, degrease any stains properly and follow the product's temperature and recoat times. We sell the same coatings and flakes we install, and we'll tell you what suits your slab before you buy. If the slab is cracked, oil-soaked or already has a failing coating, professional preparation is usually worth the cost.